Thursday, May 31, 2007

Wu Ling (Wulong/Oolong)

This is one that I wanted to review more to make a point than anything else.

Wu Ling is a high-mountain Taiwan oolong, which speaks volumes in and of itself. The land it's grown on was previously an apple and pear orchard that was converted to a tea plantation. The farm is at an altitude of over 2000 meters high, giving it that renowned Taiwan high-mountain flavor. It's a lightly oxidized Tung-Ting style jade oolong that is rolled into pellets that are slightly smaller than others. Once infused you see that each is a small stem with three small leaves, an indication that it was most likely hand-picked.

The tea is really quite good. It is said that the previous fruit orchards gives this tea a fruity quality that is indeed evident in the aroma. It has a very good smooth mouth feel, with a taste that starts sweet and slightly fruity and quickly changes to a slight green bitter quality that accentuates the taste without being a major identifying factor as it can be with green teas. It finishes off with a light and clean astringency that is felt more than tasted, but leaves you with a clean "green" taste - a good malt (hopefully I'm using that right) that comes to a bit of a point , although not as much as a green tea. This tea definitely has it's own unique character that is light and slightly elusive.

So what's the point I want to make? This is a great tea that I would be quite happy to drink at any time, but the caveat is that it's not worth the price. Unfortunately it costs $23 for just 75 grams (2.6 oz), and it's quite dense so that much only fills a small can that is about 1.5" x 2". This tea is quite good, but I've had quite a few other Taiwan high-mountain jade oolongs that I actually like better, and cost quite a bit less. This does make a superior cup, just not that far superior. I can't say that I regret getting it, but I doubt I will get any more of it.

So the moral of this story is that just because a tea is expensive, doesn't mean it's going to be that ever elusive "perfect" cup of tea that blows you away, and also to pay attention to the quantity you're getting! Although the more expensive teas do tend to be exceptional and much better than the cheaper ones, I've been finding that once you get into that price range (around $20 or so for around a quarter pound) you're not necessarily going to be that much more impressed by something that costs twice as much. I've encountered this with quite a number of Taiwan high mountain and formosa oolongs, but this was the most I had spent for so little. Perhaps it's worth it if you've really got the money and/or your tastes are really that discerning, but otherwise there are still plenty to knock your socks off without being too highly priced.


Click here for high-res



Monday, May 28, 2007

Formosa Pouchong Imperial (Wulong/Oolong)

This is my first order from Upton Tea imports, and definitely left a good impression. Upton describes this as a classic style Pouchong (Bao Zhong) that is lightly oxidized. The leaves are lightly twisted, but you wouldn't know it from the taste. The leaves are a dark green, and when seen in the tin almost look black, but after being steeped take on a more obvious forest green color. The liquor is a light amber, much like a light colored honey.




Click to see hi-res




Click to see hi-res





The first cup I made of this tea didn't strike me much. It was somewhat bland and slightly astringent, just overall unremarkable.

But...


For the second cup I used just a little more leaf (about 1.5 tea scoops, which are approximately equivalant to a heaping teaspoon), and wow! I've since found a full 2 scoops (approx 2 heaping tsp) to be the best.

The first thing that struck me was that it tasted a lot like the jade high-mountain Tung Ting style Taiwan oolongs that are rolled (like a Tie Guan Yin), but mixed with a Lu An Gua Pian green tea. Those are what I'm more used to, and what I tend to compare others against. The first thing you notice is the aroma, which is lightly but noticiably floral with a slight nutty/woody and vegetal quality. The vegetal aspect is very subtle, and does more to prop up the floral notes and combine them with the nutty/woody aspects than anything else. The floral aspects are the most notable.

The taste is very well rounded. It has a very smooth texture with a lot of mouth feel that is well balanced and sweet, and finishes off with a slight astringency that is felt more than really tasted. While it does have that very smooth and sweet body and mouth feel, it doesn't have so much that it leaves your mouth feeling coated - a well balanced smooth characteristic that leaves your tongue feeling slightly soft. It drinks almost like a very smooth green tea, but with more of an oolong feel and character. There is a vegetal quality to the taste, that starts with a slight bitterness and quickly evaporates into a dry grassiness that cleans the palate and fades into the slight astringency of the aftertaste. As in the aroma, it does more to prop up the floral aspects than anything else. The taste is definitely floral, and reminiscent of honey as well.

The aftertaste is aromatic in a way that is almost effervescent. The smooth mouth feel combined with the light astringency remains on the palate, and the steam can be felt in the nose leaving you to continue to smell the lightly floral aftertaste almost more than tasting it. Note that it does so more than other teas normally do, as this tea does have a slight viscosity that can actually be seen in the liquor. This leaves you breathing easier, and smelling the world with sweet and clean undertones.

What grabs my attention the most about this tea is how animated the taste is. Some teas do similar, but not quite to this extent. It is the difference between looking at pictures, even animated pictures, and watching a short video. It's definitely an experience, and each sip is slightly different. This is definitely one to taste with your whole mouth, and not just part of the tongue. It's great for when you are able to contemplate life, but also encourages you to relax while you go about your day. In my opinion, it's a great tea for any time of day. This tea reminds me of sitting next to a lightly rushing creek in spring.

This has very quickly made one of my favorite teas. It takes everything I like in a wulong and brings them together into a lively and animated portrait that makes me forget about everything else. Overall it is just very well balanced, lively, and clean.

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Storing Tea

Just a quick one about storing tea, and I will try to get another tea review out in the next couple of days. I've been feeling a bit overwhelmed lately with work and haven't really been doing much of anything, which includes the things that I want to do. Don't worry, though, I'm still drinking plenty of good teas and definitely going to keep up on the blog. I'm also considering a couple of ways to present and describe the teas, so stay tuned!

Storing tea properly is very important, and more important than some might think at first. If you have a high quality tea, you obviously don't want it to go stale. If you don't keep it in an adequate container, however, it can go stale quite quickly, rendering a perfectly good fine tea flat, bland, and uninteresting in no time at all. A good container may set you back a few more bucks than you were really wanting to, but it's very much worth the investment.

Here's the main things you want to protect your tea from:

  • Light - This is one that most people probably won't think about, but just think about that book, magazine, or piece of decor that got left in front of that window last summer that got sun bleached and it should make sense. Even incandescent lights contain a certain amount of UV light, and tea is very good at absorbing things. Light can and will ruin the tea, so if you insist on using a transparent container, you are going to want to keep it in a dark cupboard, keep that cupbord closed, and not open that cupboard any more than necessary. This is also something to keep in mind when you're buying teas, because unfortunately this is a point that some tea merchants either don't know, don't take seriously, or don't care about, and you could very well end up with a stale tea if it's been sitting there for any length of time.
  • Moisture - Teas are dried to pretty specific individual levels, and if they absorb excess moisture then it can deteriorate the taste and overall quality of the tea. By the same token, you also want to make sure that the tea in the container isn't going to dry out. Like I say, each tea is dried to a specific degree, and you want it to remain at the level that the farmer intended. This is also the reason you do NOT want to keep the tea in your freezer. It can introduce more moisture and/or possibly alter the existing moisture.
  • Air - This is the most obvious one. Obviously you want an airtight container. What may not be so obvious, however, is that plastic is oxygen permeable! Because of this, plastic containers are not suitable for storing your tea. I had an exceptionally fragrant high-grade monkey pick oolong lose ALL of it's fragrance this way in a matter of just a couple weeks. Plastic containers may be okay for very short term storage, but not very long. This also means no ziplock bags for anything more than transporting tea. Air is also something you want to consider when looking at the size of the container. The more completely the tea fills the container, the less air will be trapped in with it when you close it. Lastly, I would not trust those single lid tins with the lid that just slips over the top. The best tins are the ones that have a pry out lid as well as a slip-over top. Otherwise I would look for a tin with at least a pry-out lid.
  • Odor - A lot of teas are most well definied by the scents they have absorbed. Tea is VERY good at absorbing odors. Some of my favorite teas have strong and definite fruit and/or flower fragrances and tastes, but without being artificially scented at all - the tea picks up the scents from plants growing near by the tea tree/bush itself! This is made obvious by the fact that the dry tea leaves smell just like.. dry leaves.. until you brew the tea. So anyway, make sure the container doesn't have it's own odor, can't pass odor, and won't retain the odor of the tea you're keeping in it. I would also refrain from keeping your tea in the same cupboard as things like spices.
  • Temperature - Just like most things, you want to keep it relatively cool. A regular cupboard would likely be fine, just probably not a cupboard above your stove or fridge. You don't want to roast your tea!

The best containers I've encountered are BeeHouse brand ceramic containers. They have an airtight rubber seal with a metal latch. One thing that you may not realize (I didn't realize until I started actually sculpting with clay) is that the glaze on ceramic is actually glass. Clay itself can actually turn to glass if heated to extreme temperatures or fired too many times (it just won't make clear or even glass). So this way you get a completely opaque canister with a good airtight seal and that is completely odor-neutral. These are a bit expensive, but you might be able to find the same basic container at a kitchenware store for less. For the top grade teas, though, they are very definitely worth it, and the larger canisters are only a few bucks more than the small ones, and if you're going to buy that much tea then, particularly if it's a top grade tea, having a top-notch container is definitely going to be worth it. Specialteas.com has a good selection of these canisters, and they have pretty decent prices compared to other websites.

My next favorite types of containers are the double lid tins from The Tao of Tea. They are attractive round tins that have a pry-out type inner lid with a knob for easier removal and a slip cover type second lid. These are $4 each and hold around 3.5-4 oz of an average density tea, and about 2oz of a light and fluffy type tea. They also have smaller canisters (also double-lid) for a little less that are great for keeping things like samples (holds around 2oz of a relatively dense tea). These also stack pretty well, and I find this size to be perfect - it's the amount of tea I prefer to buy when it's something I'll drink regularly but not enough to justify a large amount.

After that I like the plain-Jane pry-top tins from Upton Tea Imports. These are pretty basic, but work well. Unfortunately they don't stack quite as well as the others, but they are cheap and space efficient. Upton has two different sizes, and I use these mainly when I have more or less of a tea than what fits in the Tao of Tea's tins.

Obviously there are others you could get as well. Plain old canning jars or the glass jars with rubber seal and metal latch that are common would do well, so long as they're not exposed to much light. You could always cover up the bulk of the jar or even paint the outside. If you have a vacuum sealer with a canning jar attachment, then so much the better!

So just a quick bullet-pointed recap:

DO:
  • Get an airtight canister with a very good airtight seal
  • Use a container made of glazed ceramic, tin, or glass (opaque or covered)
  • Keep it in a cool, dark, and dry place like a cupboard
  • Keep the container closed as much as possible, and just generally keep the tea protected from the elements as much as possible
  • Use an appropriate size container for the amount of tea
  • Invest in a good container that will protect your expensive tea!
DON'T
  • Trust single lid tins or generally cheap containers
  • Use plastic containers, or containers with plastic lids
  • Use anything that has, or will retain, an odor
  • Store tea out in the open
  • Store above appliances that generate heat (stove, fridge, etc.)
  • Store with anything aromatic, eg spices
  • Store in the freezer
So that's it for now. If you know any sources for great storage containers, then please leave comments (with links if possible). I would also be very grateful for any corrections or additions for anything I may have gotten wrong or missed.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Bi Luo Chun (Pi Lo Chun)

Bi Luo Chun (aka Pi Lo Chun) is one of my all-time favorite teas. I previously didn't even like green tea, but it was one of the first fine teas that I was introduced to, and immediately became a favorite.

The name means "Spring Snail", which is both descriptive of the shape the leaves are rolled into (a spiral shape) and is named after Bi Luo Peak. It was originally named Xia Si Ren Xiang, meaning "Astounding Fragrance", although I've also seen it translated as "Scarry Fragrance". It is one of the "Top 10 famous teas of China" (at least that which comes from Dong Ting), and has a long history.

I got this first from Serenity Art, here in Portland, but got a couple others as well, including the original and famous Dong Ting Bi Luo Chun from www.teaspring.com. The girl at the tea shop recommended it, and when I failed to buy some she gave me a sample. I've been drinking it every day since.

Serenity Art has 4 grades - A through D. Most websites only have one, and it can be hard to tell what you're going to get. The top grade has lots of white tips in it, and almost looks like you're holding a jar full of cotton strings. The lower grades have less tips, and more dark green leaves. The Dong Ting Bi Luo Chun has lots of tips, and actually a whole lot of downy hairs on and from the tea buds. They also have a slightly golden tinge.



Grade "A" from Serenity Art


Grade "A" from Serenity Art
Click to see high resolution version



Lower grade from Adigo Teas


Lower grade from Adigo Teas
Click for high resolution version




Dong Ting Bi Luo Chun from TeaSpring.com
Click to see high resolution version, must see!



Notice that the higher grades have many more white and fluffy tips. The Dong Ting Bi Luo Chun has lots and lots of fuzzy down that even leaves dust on anything that it comes in contact with. This gives it a definite mouth feel that the other types don't have. The difference between grades is pretty easy to see. I will try to set up a more aesthetically pleasing background for taking pictures later on, but this will do for now.


What I like the most about this tea is that the flavor is incredibly complex. Unfortunately it's so complex that it's kinda hard to describe. Sensational Teas notes that everyone describes it differently, and it's easy to see why. I'll try my best.

The first thing I noticed is that it takes the things I normally dislike in green teas, the astringency and slight bitterness, and puts them in perfect harmony and balance with a very distinct smoothness and sweetness. It has a whole range of flavors that seem impossible to go together, yet seem to be in perfect symbiosis. It's like having a classic masterpiece painting of colors in your mouth (I know that sounds cheezy, but in this case it's the only way I can think to describe it). It's fragrant, fruity (light apricot and citrus, especially), vegetal, maybe very slightly grassy, nutty, bitter that quickly morphs into sweet, and has a whole range of other nuances, all lined up in perfect order, and all at once. The aftertaste is lasting and sweet, with a perfect astringency that you feel more than taste. The aroma is warm, very lightly fragrant, and sweet like honeysuckle (which present in the taste as well). None of the flavors or qualities are separate, they are all inexplicably intertwined.

Overall this is a tea that immediately grabs your attention and challenges you to tease out the tastes. It's an experience unto itself.

Lower quality Bi Luo Chun is a little more on the bitter side, a little less complex, and a little less smooth. Ironically, I actually didn't like the Dong Ting nearly as much as I expected; which is really disappointing considering how much it costs. It was very very smooth and sweet, but it just didn't have the same complexities. For being the supposed 'best of the best', it didn't seem like a high-grade. Perhaps it was actually a lower grade of Dong Ting, I don't know. It does have a lot more mouth feel, however, which I attribute to the much greater amount of downy hairs on the tips. Don't get me wrong, it's not a bad tea at all, it's really very good, it's just not what I expect from a super high grade Bi Luo Chun. To it's credit it is a very nice delicate and sweet green tea that is somewhat ethereal - it almost seems like the flavor is sitting on top of your tongue.

The only catch with this tea is that it can be a challenge to brew correctly, but it is definitely worth it. The easiest way I've found to do it is to use 160~170 degree (F) water with 1 tsp of leaf in a 16 oz cup with no filter. The small amount of leaf with a double serving of water seems to give a perfect cup each time. Brewing less is trickier, but is primarily a matter of not letting it brew too long. You DEFINITELY don't want to use chlorinated tap water - to me that would be like using a dirty coffee cup to drink Dom Perion, and it would definitely make it more flat.

If you're in Portland, head to the Fubonn Shopping Center on 82nd Ave and get some of this from Serenity Art. I can't remember exactly how much I paid, but it was along the lines of $10 for 3oz, which is incredibly cheap. Otherwise try some of the online shops, but pay attention to the pictures and descriptions. SpecialTeas.com appears to have the Dong Ting variety, but I don't know if it's the same as what I got from TeaSpring.com or not.

Types of tea and brewing

Before I start getting into specific teas, I thought it would probably be best to outline the different kinds of tea that are out there.

Most people (at least here in the USA) are not aware that all actual tea comes from one plant, the tea tree, Camellia sinensis. What differentiates the different types are how they are processed. White teas are the least processed, with no oxidation, and black teas are the most, and most oxidized. In order, from least processed to most processed, you have:

White tea - Usually made of the newly sprouted buds of the plant. They are immediately heat or sun dried without any oxidation. Generally considered to have the most polyphenols of all teas, and very very low caffeine (if any). This is pretty much "raw" tea, or as close as it gets. White teas usually have a very light flavor.

Yellow tea - Although yellow tea is a class of tea unto it's own, it can also refer to an imperial tea. The classification, however, refers to a tea that is very close to a green tea, but takes more skill (and time) to make, using a more careful and extensive drying process. It generally lacks the characteristic vegetal, bitter, or astringent qualities of green teas. In my opinion they are more like a light fragrant oolong or slightly stronger white tea, and are usually lighter than most green teas.

Green tea - Oxidation is stopped very early by steaming or heating the leaves in a pan. Green teas have a wide range of tastes, but usually have a very slight bitter quality, astringency, vegetal and/or grassy taste. Since green tea is not very oxidized, it has a low caffeine content and higher polyphenol content, although not as much as white tea. Not everyone likes green teas, but if you've only had the mass-produced stuff sold in teabags at your local grocer, I hope you will reserve judgement until you can get a cup of the finer teas. I can't drink that crap either.

Oolong (Wu Long) tea - The words "Wu Long" actually mean "Black Dragon". The difference between "Oolong", "Wulong", and "Wu Long" are nil, they are all "Romanizations" of the Chinese language. This tea is partially oxidized, around 15%-40% or so, although it can be more or less depending on the tea. Generally speaking, there are three types of wu long tea: jade, amber, and champagne, which is also in order of oxidation. I've also seen them classified in two types: fragrant and amber. More specifically there are 11 types, according to the growing region. Wu long tea can have a wide range of flavors, some are very noticeably fruity, floral, woody, nutty, grainy, smoky, and any number of combinations and nuances. Wu long teas are usually either twisted or rolled, and most of the good ones are full leaf. When a rolled tea (which usually looks like a pellet about a centimeter in diameter) unfurls, you sometimes get a small twig with up to 2 or 3 full tea leaves. As you've probably guessed, wu longs have moderate caffeine and moderate polyphenols, although those are far from being the only things that count. Wu long tea is one of the most intensive types to make. It takes lots of steps, and each farm/estate may do so slightly differently.

Black tea - This is the one most people are familiar with, so I won't say much about it other than that it's fully oxidized. You may also not know that in China it's referred to as red tea. I'm not a real big fan of black teas, although they are the best to wake up with in the morning, IMO. Some of the full leaf black teas, especially Darjeelings, are very good, however.

Pu Erh tea - This one is not well known in the west, but is becoming more popular. Pu Erh is popular with the Cantonese people of China (where others tend to prefer green). This is a black tea, but is packed into bricks, cakes, plates, or bowls that look like bird nests (called Tou Cha), fermented, and aged. Pu erh is a bit like a fine wine in this way, the older it gets the better it gets. Unlike other tea, it never goes stale. If you're very lucky, and very rich, you might find a 100 year old pu erh. Otherwise you can get up to 25 year old pu erh, although they are still quite expensive. Due to the fermentation, pu erh has it's own great benefits that others do not, primarily to do with digestion, but I'm sure there's more. In China it is considered to be a very healthy drink. It is generally darker than most black teas, with an earthy and somewhat smoky taste, but there are as many different kinds of pu erhs as there are other teas. Some (many?) are even made with semi-wild and old-growth tea trees, sometimes producing very large leaves. They are characteristically smooth, however, getting smoother with age. The cheaper stuff is usually 2 to 5 years old. Some of them are made into decorative plaques or plates that you might almost think were either carved wood or clay, if it weren't for the fact that you could see the leaves.

Sometimes you will see the oxidation process in other teas referred to as "fermentation", however it is not; there are no micro-organisms involved. The only exception is with pu erh tea, which really is fermented, using micro-organisms and all. The oxidation process gives tea it's caffeine: the more oxidized, the more caffeine (but you already know that from reading the above). This also reduces the polyphenol content, but not entirely. It also changes the chemical makeup of the various teas, and so each tea has benefits that are stronger than any of the others. So if you want the benefits of all the different types, you'll have to make sure to drink them all :) The oxidation process also tends to make the tea taste stronger, although this can also vary greatly by the individual selection - there are green teas that are stronger (in taste, not caffeine) than any other type I've tried.

Herbal teas are not actually teas at all, and are properly referred to as Tinsanes, although you may also see them referred to more generically as "infusions". When you find something like the African red tea, that is actually a Tinsane, because it is not made from the actual tea plant.

Some may insist that this is being too picky about semantics, but the thing to remember is that the word "Tea" comes from the old Asian name "Te", which refers to the plant and not the infused beverage. So a tinsane is no more a "tea" than a pork-chop is a steak. Just because the final product that you consume has similar outward properties, doesn't mean that they are the same animal.

Yerba Mate is another type. This is not actually from the tea plant, but has many of the same qualities. Some will compare it to a green tea, but in my opinion only someone that is not familiar with green teas would do so. Yerba mate is from South America, and is a traditional drink there. It's dried by smoking it, which gives it a distinctive earthy and smoky flavor, which varies between brands. It is traditionally drank from a hollowed out and dried gourd through a metal straw with a filter at the end, called a bombilla. You can also find roasted mate, although it is relatively rare. Roasted mate tastes a bit like a light bodied coffee brewed with some cocoa beans mixed in, and is one of my favorite things to drink. Yerba mate is becoming more popular in America, and is VERY good for your health (in many ways). I will post more on it at a later date.

You will also see references to pekoe. Here's the definition from Answers.com:

The Chinese Pekoe teas are classified into various qualities according to whether the adjacent young leaves (two, one or none) were picked along with the leaf buds. Top quality pekoe consists of only the leaf buds. The buds are picked using only the balls of the finger tips. Fingernails or mechanical tools are not used to avoid bruising the picks.

When crushed to make bagged teas, the tea is referred to as "broken", as in "Broken Orange Pekoe" (also "Broken Pekoe" or "BOP"), sometimes sold as loose leaf for reduced price. Bagged teas often also include fannings and dust, which are simply tiny remnants of the sorting and/or crushing process.

Orange Pekoe is often referred to as "OP". The grading scheme contains other categories considered higher quality than OP, which are determined primarily by leaf wholeness and leaf size. The grades for whole leaf orthodox black tea (in ascending order) are:

  • OP (Orange Pekoe)
  • FOP (Flowery Orange Pekoe)
  • GFOP (Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe)
  • TGFOP (Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe)
  • FTGFOP (Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe)
  • SFTGFOP (Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe)

It should be noted that this is not a reliable measurement of quality. The SFTGFOP from an estate that makes poor quality tea may be of lower quality than a "lower" pekoe from another farm or estate. This is more a grading system of the part of the plant and how whole the leaf is. This can indeed give you some idea of what to expect, but only in a limited context.

Brewing
The first thing that most people do wrong is to fully boil the water, and this can actually ruin a perfectly good tea. Using water that is too hot can make green teas taste "spinachy" and bitter when they shouldn't, and make other teas bland and flat (especially yerba mate). Generally speaking, the lighter the tea the cooler the water should be:
White tea: ~160 F
Green tea: ~170 F
Wu long & Black tea: ~190-200 F

Keep in mind that each individual tea is different. Any tea merchant that is serious about tea should be able to tell you the best way to brew each individual tea, and this is something that should be paid close attention to. How long each tea is brewed is also something individual to each tea, but over-brewing can very much ruin a tea, especially green teas.

Some teas can be brewed "Chinese Style" - just put the loose leaf in the bottom of the cup and pour in hot water, no filter. When you get low on water, add more! Although this is most often done in a gaiwan (a thin cup with a lid and saucer, which is often considered ideal for many/most teas), a regular cup/mug works as well.

TIP: I have found that for most whole-leaf green teas (and some jade wu longs), a 16oz mug with ~3 grams of leaf in the bottom, unfiltered, often produces a very good cup that can only be improved upon by skilled use of a gaiwan. If you're just discovering fine teas, you might give this a try, I've almost never ended up with a bitter or astringent cup unless it was something to do with the leaves (too much, stale, etc.).

Most teas should be brewed for only a short time, and it's really best NOT to use a tea ball or other similar device that will constrain the tea. As the dry leaves start to steep, they unfurl and give off flavors. At the start they will usually give off the more sweet and desirable flavors that characterize the tea, and as they "wear out" they start giving off bitterness and astringency. If you constrain the leaves too much, the outside leaves will start giving off the bitterness and astringency, while the inner leaves are too compressed to give off much of anything. The end result of constraining the leaves too much is a weak, flat, vapid, and insipid cup at best, and a nasty pale cup that tastes like bitter contaminated water at worst, depending on the tea. You will even find that some/many broken leaf teas (like many black teas) will taste better and more lively if allowed to fully unfurl and move about.

If you're not using a teapot that you can strain by placing the strainer between the teapot and your cup, then consider something like an infuser cup, which has a ceramic basket (like a cup with holes in it) that fits inside the cup. You could also get the metal basket type made for teapots that will fit in most cups quite inexpensively in a pinch (these usually only cost about a dollar or two).

The best way to brew tea is gong-fu style, which is a "ceremonial" Chinese style of brewing that uses a small pot made of Yixing clay or a gaiwan, small cups, aroma cups (sometimes), a small pitcher, more leaf with less water, and a big wet mess if you don't use a tray to catch spilled water. Gong-fu literally means "to do with skill", and this style of brewing is called gong-fu cha ("cha" meaning "tea"). This is more involved, and takes time and skill to master. It does, however, produce the best results. You also usually get a lot more infusion out of one pot of tea. You can find more information, including instructions, at http://www.chineseteas101.com/

One important factor in brewing tea, however, is not to use (chlorinated) tap water. Ideally you should use spring water, which will have a balanced hardness and neutral pH. DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS, as water quality will make a very noticeable difference in the quality of your tea. Living in Portland Oregon, our water is already quite pure (it mostly comes from melted snow from the mountains, and is one of the few in the country that doesn't require filtering), so living here I have found that filtered water is actually better than most bottled spring water. I use one of those Pur brand filter-pitchers that you pour water in the top and it trickles into the actual pitcher through a filter. Although I think it does a better job than Brita, the difference is somewhat negligible.

Brewing tea does take skill, and your tea will improve as you get to know each tea and brewing in general. I would say that the biggest thing to keep in mind is to pay attention to the instructions for each tea, and never assume that you can brew each tea the same way and get the same results. This is too often overlooked, but it can make all the difference in the world.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Places to buy tea

Here's a few of my favorite places so far.

Local Stores:

Serenity Art Inc.
Rating: 5 of 5
http://www.serenityartinc.com/
If you're in the Portland (OR) area, Serenity Art is a fantastic place to buy teas, tea ware, and fine Asian arts and crafts. They don't have the biggest selection of tea, but they have enough to keep any one person happy for some time. They have some things I've just not found elsewhere, and some that I've not found a match in quality elsewhere, particularly for the price. They have, for example, a top grade Biluochun for a great price, the likes of which I have not found anywhere else. They actually sell 4 different grades (from A to D). They also have a number of yellow teas, which are absolutely fantastic. If you're curious about something, they will brew up a sample for you, Gong-Fu style! It was something to watch, for sure, he did it with the speed and efficiency of someone that's been doing it for a lifetime. It seems to be a family run business, with the elder knowing the most about teas (duh).
You can find them at the Fubonn shopping center on SE 82nd Ave.

Specialized Vendors:
(Vendors that focus on a particular type of tea(s), carrying higher quality and harder to find teas of that type.)

Hou De Fine Teas
Rating: 5
of 5
http://www.houdeasianart.com/
Outstanding quality and service, they specialize in mostly top quality wu long and pu'erh. One of the really nice things is that they tell you what year the tea was picked, so you can be a lot more confident about what you get. While the prices may seem high superficially, I have found that equivalent quality elsewhere is often much more costly. What others might call "imperial" or other impressive title, Hou De often carries as their basic stock. They carry many Taiwan high-mountain wu longs you can not find elsewhere, and also have a fantastic GABA wu long that is actually cheaper (and much better) than others. The proprieter of Hou De is one of the most knowledgeable in the field, and has been quite generous with his time in answering my questions and accommodating my wishes. I cannot recommend this vendor enough. Additionally carries many Asian antiques and fine art items, as well as a tea roaster that can also be used to refresh stale teas! Teas come in vacuum sealed packets placed inside coated paper bags with fold-down tops (similar to the bags used to buy bulk coffee), with delicate teas in (attractive) tins.

Shan Shui Teas
Rating: 5 of 5
http://www.shanshuiteas.com

Specializes in Taiwan wu longs and bao zhongs, with a very interesting (albeit limited) stock. Some prices are a bit high, but mostly for the top quality teas with a (more than) respectable lower quality of most. They don't bother with meaningless gradings like "imperial" -- they are more down to earth. The owner and I had a brief but pleasant exchange, very friendly and accommodating. The products I received were outstanding, and some of my favorites to date. Service and shipping were both expedient. If you prefer wu longs, definitely check this site out; they have some amazing stuff. Teas come in vacuum sealed semi-opaque plastic packets with option for foil-lined cardboard tins.

Angelina's Teas
Rating 5 of 5
http://www.angelinasteas.com/
A small operation with a select inventory of very good puerh, as well as a limited selection of other teas. The puerh is all I have purchased from them, but every tea I have purchased from them has been a very good buy. This vendor has been instrumental in my exploration of puerh, and I have gained considerable trust in their selection. Service is prompt, reliable, and professional.

Tea from Taiwan
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.teafromtaiwan.com/
This is a company that's actually in Taiwan. They definitely have some interesting stuff that you won't find elsewhere, almost entirely Wulongs (oolong). Check out their GABA tea, for example. Some of their prices can be quite high, however they are very high quality. This is a great site for lovers of quality Taiwan high-mountain oolongs. Teas come in vacuum sealed foil bags/packets with oxygen absorbing packet. I believe this to be the packaging from the tea farm. I dock half a star for having limited inventory.

Jing Tea Shop
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.jingteashop.com/
Jing's has a reputation for having some of the finest Wuyi wulongs that is very well deserved, and additionally specialize in puerh. They also have some of the best prices for these teas. They do have other teas as well, but selection is limited. Jing's has fast, prompt, and reliable service that has made a regular customer of me. If you want good Wuyi wulongs, I can wholeheartedly recommend this store. The only things I dislike about Jing's is the number of clicks it takes to complete a purchase, the amount of time it takes to receive the package, and no trackable shipping. Orders are shipped from China using regular post, without the option for faster shipping. Tea comes in sealed foil bags with plenty of room for folding down the top.

Grand Tea Shop
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.grandtea.com
I found this after Jing, but I have found that their Wuyi yancha is actually even better than Jing's! The prices and quantities are similar to Jing's as well. They also specialize in puerh, and have some other teas as well. From both my communications with him as well as reports from others on the internet, Yat (the owner) is very honest, and will let you know if his puerh was wet or dry stored, etc. When I asked for a recommendation within a particular price range, I found that he kept it at the lower end, rather than pushing for the most expensive items as I expected. Great service, fantastic products, you couldn't ask for more - except, perhaps, faster shipping. Tea comes in sealed foil packets.

Ma-Tea.com
Rating: 4 of 5
http://www.ma-tea.com/
My favorite place to buy Yerba Mate. Great prices, prompt service. Plain and simple. If you like Yerba Mate, don't miss this site. Tea comes in original retail packaging. The only negative is that many of the best things have a tendency to go out of stock fairly quickly, and don't always get restocked promptly; this is why I give them a rating of 4 instead of 5.


General Vendors:
(Vendors focus on variety, with a wide selection of different types of teas. Some may still specialize in one type while offering others as well.)

TeaCuppa
Rating: 5 of 5
http://www.teacuppa.com/
Excellent quality, excellent service. I was impressed that I managed to get my package from Malaysia in 2 days flat (FedEx rocks!), and shipping was not that expensive. After several orders, this has been consistent. This site doesn't have the largest inventory, but they do have a good variety of some exceptional teas at good prices. While some see their reputation as tarnished due to poor reviews of their puerh, I have found TeaCuppa's wulong (especially their Wuyi's) and green teas to be consistently high quality to the point that TeaCuppa is my most frequented tea vendor. They have also improved their stock of puerh since those reviews. Teas come in sealed foil packets.

Upton Tea Imports
Rating: 5 of 5
http://www.uptontea.com/
Excellent selection, great quality, decent prices. Upton has failed to disappoint to date. They have teas from some places you just can't find elsewhere (eg Kenya green tea and Thai oolong). They also have some of the best pictures of each tea, which includes measurements. I was pleasantly surprised to find the teas came in a good tin with a pry out lid and a dated and personalized label. The tea I got is definitely quality, and lived up to the expectations of the description they gave for each. This is one that I return to frequently. Teas come in your choice of pry-top tin or packets. Tins can be purchased separately

Tea Spring
Rating: 5 of 5
http://www.teaspring.com/
This site is amazing. They have all the top 10 most famous teas of China (from the actual farm that won the prize, not the same made by another farm, and many/most have verifiable anti-fake labels for assurance). They have a great selection and reasonable prices. They actually ship from China, so it does take a few extra days to get your shipment, but it's not as bad as you might think. This is definitely one for anyone serious about tea to check out, especially those on the journey to becoming connoisseurs. Teas come in sealed foil packets, but some teas come in tins packaged by the farms.

Golden TeaHouse
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.goldenteahouse.com
Some interesting inventory, good quality, and prompt service. They have quite a few good things, including a number of teas I have not found elsewhere. Shipment comes through regular post, but it did arrive within about a week, and was shipped promptly. The teas were better than expected. A good solid vendor. My only gripe is that I paid for "expedited shipping" and never got a tracking number -- I suspect they sent my package with the normal shipping, which was about $10 cheaper than what I paid (but I could be totally wrong). They also have some great looking ceramic tea storage containers. Teas come in resealable foil bags with a clear window.

Seven Cups
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.sevencups.com

Some of their teas are overpriced, others are more than reasonable (although if you create a free account, you get 10% off). While this isn't the first place I would check for a new tea, there are some things that are well worth getting from here. They have a pretty good selection and prompt service. They do also have some things I've not seen elsewhere, and an overall good inventory. Items come in sealed packets. Lots of good info at this site, raising their rating from a 4 to a 4.5 (would be a 5 if some of their prices weren't so extravagant). Tea comes in resealable bags.

SpecialTeas.com
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.specialteas.com/
This site has a lot of great teas. Some of their prices are exceptional, others average, but all worth it. They have a large inventory that they claim to take regular samples of to ensure consistent quality, and I believe it. I've not yet been disappointed in any tea from this site yet, and find this to be a great source for my everyday teas. They have a number of top grade teas, and teas you can't find elsewhere, including an excellent selection of Darjeelings (including top grade). They are also quite prompt at getting your order shipped with friendly service. Teas come in sealed bags made from coated foil that are resealable.

Sensational Teas
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.sensationalteas.com/
I was highly impressed with the personal, professional, and prompt service of this site. Very much so. I ordered last on a Saturday morning, and received a human response (by email) telling me that my order had shipped the same afternoon. Their selection isn't the best, but they do have some things that nobody else has, and some good prices. If you're looking for a bamboo tray for Gong-Fu tea preparation, they have some of the lowest prices I've seen. Teas come in your choice of single-lid tin or bag/packet(?). If they had more inventory and included pictures of the teas, I would give them a full 5 of 5 rating.

Red Blossom
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.redblossom.com
I avoided Red Blossom for some time due to the lack of information in their descriptions. There are some items, like their Wuyi yancha, that I would be interested in if they were of a particular age, but not if new. There is just little indication of what you are getting. The few teas that I have gotten from them, however, were absolutely fantastic, and so I can recommend them for getting to know tea or if there's something in particular you want. The deeply involved tea-head may not find this vendor appealing, however. Tea comes in sealed foil bags with plenty of room for folding down the top.

Enjoying Teas
Rating: 4.5 of 5
http://www.enjoyingtea.com/
This one has some great prices, and others are a bit high. They do have a good selection of good teas. The Lu An Gua Pian I got from them was pretty much the same as what I got from TeaSpring but a little less green, and the price was roughly half of what I paid at TeaSpring. It's definitely one to check out, and is very good for getting your everyday teas. They also have some great prices on some great tins and bamboo trays. Tea comes in resealable plastic coated foil bags.

The Tao of Tea
Rating: 4 of 5
http://www.taooftea.com/
They don't always have the best quality, but they do have good representations of most teas and includes some that you can't find elsewhere. This is a great site for discovering new teas, and/or when there is something you want to try without paying a lot for it (most teas can be purchased in a tin for $10-$15, even normally expensive ones). Don't let that put you off - they may not have all the competition grades, but they do have very good teas. Some indeed are competition grade. They give lots of info (more than any other I've seen), and have a good selection of teas from pretty much all regions. They do have a number of things you can't find elsewhere. For those in the Portland area, they have a tea room on SE Belmont, and they are also the proprietors of the tea room in the Chinese Gardens downtown, which strives to provide an authentic Chinese atmosphere, and serving tea in traditional ceremonial fashion. Tea comes in your choice of double-lid tins or resealable coated foil bags. The tins are my favorite for storing tea, and can be purchased separately. Unfortunately between the fact that it consistently takes them almost a week to ship orders and some service mishaps, I rarely buy from them anymore. With that said, however, I would still recommend them for beginners looking to explore new teas.


eBay Stores:

Chinese Teapot Gallery
-
http://stores.ebay.com/Chinese-Teapot-Gallery-Tea-Culture
Impressive items, prices, and service. Prompt, professional, and reliable, items shipped and received quickly and in perfect condition. Mostly teaware, with some unusual items at great prices.

Yunnan Sourcing -
http://stores.ebay.com/Yunnan-Sourcing-LLC
Great selection and prices, great service, knowledgeable seller with solid reputation. If you're looking for young puerh, this is one of the first places to look.

Chinese Style Culture Site -
http://stores.ebay.com/Chinese-Style-Culture-Site
Very accommodating, friendly, professional, prompt service and shipping with impressive inventory and prices. Items come from China through regular mail, so can take a while, but the prices make it worth the wait. Quality and reliability are high, items were as expected or better.

Dragon Tea House -
http://stores.ebay.com/Dragon-Tea-House
Impressive stock and prices, items shipped promptly. Solid quality, prompt service, couldn't ask for more from an eBay store (as good, if not better, than the others, but I'm running out of ways to write gushing praises). This is one of the other go-to places for young puerh, but they also have many other great items.

Awoono Pu-erh Shop
http://stores.ebay.com/Awoono-Pu-erh-Tea-Shop
A great seller for puerh, even has some aged puerh that has received good reviews. Prices seem quite fair, items shipped promptly, seller conducts business quite professionally.

--

I found another seller on eBay that goes by a name that consists of a large number followed by "friends" and sells mostly yixing teapots, but cannot recommend this one. They have some beautiful pieces, but some are expensive and all have expensive shipping. What's worse, however, is that they all look like they have been rubbed with shoe polish to artificially age the teapots, which are then labled "Vintage", and sold for prices indicative of new pieces. Speaking with vendors, it appears that this seller has a reputation for selling fakes, which only confirmed my own existing suspicions. Maybe the person is sincere and doesn't realize what he's selling, but I would caution anyone considering buying from them. Hou De wrote a great blog entry on the subject of artificially aged yixing pots.



Some more that I cannot vouch for the quality or service of, but have good inventory or otherwise look impressive to me:

Imperial Tea Court - http://www.imperialtea.com (great reputation for being knowledgeable)
O-Cha - http://www.o-cha.com (specializes in Japanese green teas, has a reputation for selling some of the best)
T-Ching - http://www.tching.com (specializes in green teas)
J-Tea - http://www.jteainternational.com
Lochan Tea Limited - http://www.lochantea.com
Rishi Tea
- http://www.rishi-tea.com
The Fragrant Leaf - http://www.thefragrantleaf.com
Todd & Holland - http://www.todd-holland.com
Holy Mountain Trading Company - http://www.holymtn.com
The Tea Farm - http://www.theteafarm.com
Ten Tea - http://www.10tea.com/


I will likely order from these sites in the future, and will add them to the section above (with review) if they're good, or delete them if not. I know there are some other sites out there that are somewhat popular, but they are not listed here because I do not consider them to provide quality teas and/or good service (usually the former). When I give a recommendation for a tea shop, it is because it's one that I would regularly buy from because I feel confident that I will get consistently good quality teas and good/prompt service. There are a lot of tea shops out there, many that are truly top notch, so there are PLENTY of good ones to find just about anything you could want, and at a good price, without including the ones that don't.

With that said, however, if you know of a vendor that has impressive selection and quality (should be equal to the ones I review above), do feel free to bring them up in the comments and I will check them out.

Tea time

Join me as I discover the world of tea! I hope to make weekly posts discussing new kinds of tea that I'm trying, tea ware, places to buy tea, benefits of tea, and anything else I can think of relating to the world of tea.

Note that I am NOT a tea expert, just an enthusiast. I am, however, a quick study with discerning tastes. I've never had a tea that I flat out did not like, but there are some that I like more than others. My tastes tend towards the fragrant and fruity, but NOT scented or flavored teas. I am very much enjoying discovering the world of fine teas, and I hope I can encourage others to as well. So I will try my best to give you the scoop on some of the fine teas out there as simply and accurately as possible.

I hope you enjoy it :)