Rou Gui (Wuyi Yan Cha Wulong) Marathon

Rou Gui is one of the five famous Wuyi wulongs (previously four). It is renowned for having a rich aroma and taste that is much like cassia bark. Cassia is another variety of cinnamon, and so Rou Gui is often compared with cinnamon. While I do see the similarity, I have had a hard time defining the aroma of Rou Gui as cinnamon, but some are more so than others. Each Rou Gui has it's own unique character. Some have much more of a cassia bark character than others, some are more roasted than others, but all are distinctly Rou Gui. I decided to do a large comparison to show how much variation there can be between different sources, and I also believe that such a large comparison will do more to help convey the essence of what Rou Gui really is, at least more than a single review can do.

I wanted to add a couple more, but have been holding out on this one for long enough. I will, however, try to add them to this post as I get them, and make a note that I have done so. Unfortunately I decided to do this review in the summer, which has a tendency to interfere with Wuyi wulongs in general, but Rou Gui especially. As such it has taken me longer to do this comparison than usual, and I've also had to rely partially on memory from drinking these teas on cooler days.


2005 Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



This was the first Rou Gui that I had ever tried, and so it became the standard by which I judge all others. As such, it's only fitting that I mention this one first.

For a start, my initial perception (which continues to date, albeit from a different perspective) is that it smells more like cherry pipe tobacco than cinnamon. It certainly does have a sort of cinnamon bark type profile, but the deeper and sweeter aspects of it remind me more of a dark cherry pipe tobacco with a heavily roasted character. This is actually one of life's more pleasant fragrances to me, and as I grew up with the aroma as a small child I may be a little biased. To me it's a wonderful and comforting aroma. I do indeed understand why some would consider it a more cinnamon smell, but I simply think that there is more to appreciate than cinnamon.

Even though this has aged a couple years, it still has quite an up-front, wild, fiery character; perhaps slightly tamed. The cassia bark flavor is very noticeable, and enhanced by the characteristic Wuyi acidity that creates a "wood grain" texture on the tongue and settles into a slight astringency in the finish. There is a slight bitterness that tingles the back edges of the tongue without dominating the flavor. The aroma is impressive and really adds to the experience of this tea. The aftertaste is interesting; it's fruity, dry, and reveals the roasting more than any other time, and lasts for quite a while. The body is starting to develop the smoothness of an aged Wuyi, but it's not quite there yet. Perhaps another year or two. Nevertheless, this is a great one for drinking now. As tempting as it is to drink regularly I may decide to let this one age and come back to it next year, as I will be hard pressed to get much more of it. Subsequent infusions give a vague and hazy glance at what it may become.

This one reminds me of a large fireplace in an old dark library with overstuffed leather chairs, a pipe burning itself out in the ashtray on an old dark wood table, with the fire dimly illuminating only the edges of various shapes in the room.


2007 Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



I had a harder time with this one, but I think it may be mainly because it was not what I was expecting. This one is a lighter Rou Gui, with greener leaves and a more pale orange liquor. I don't get nearly as much aroma from this one, although it certainly is there. This one does, however, have more of what I would consider to be a cinnamon profile. It affects the upper palate the same way that cinnamon does, tingling and stimulating the roof of your mouth almost to the back of your throat. Despite the paler liquor, it definitely has a wild and fiery character that is quite notable, revealing it's youth. Unfortunately the taste is a bit dominated by the charcoal taste common to young Wuyi's, however it does not stand in the way of enjoying this tea, and definitely does not reduce it to the level of common cheap/mediocre Wuyi's by any means. The aftertaste is lasting, sweet, and spicy. It has only the very slightest hint of astringency that is barely noticeable and prompts a bit of salivation to compensate. It's definitely not as satisfying as the 2005, however with some age I'm sure it could turn into something great.

This one reminds me of a bonfire next to the sea at the untamed Oregon coast in the very late summer. It's not the smells, but rather the visceral sensations of being affronted by the spectrum of various forces of nature and the ambivalence between our ability to control it and our utter vulnerability to it.


2002 Aged Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



This one comes in a sealed packet inside a nice box, and has 5 years of aging under it's belt -- and it shows. This is actually the best Rou Gui I have found to date. I even like it better than many of the more expensive ones. The cassia bark taste and aroma are well developed, mature, and deep-seated in a very nice, smooth complexity. The fire and charcoal have calmed way down, and play more of a supporting role that remind you more of the glowing embers. Although this one has no real viscosity, it melts into your tongue and leaves it feeling coated with roasted sweetness, which is not entirely uncommon in well aged Wuyi's. The taste is well defined. The cassia bark takes a deep seat among the roasted goodness, but remains well defined and comes to a very slightly bitter point that wakes up your taste buds. In the aftertaste this melts slowly and smoothly into a nice sweetness that lasts for some time.

If I was to choose just one word to sum this one up, it would definitely be 'mature'. While this one has provided the most consistency, it does not remain entirely unaffected by environmental conditions. Unfortunately hot and humid weather tend to steal some of the aroma and depth in taste of Wuyi wulongs in general. I picked an unfortunate time to brew this one today, as it is now starting to warm up a bit and steal some of the depth from my cup during the infusions I tend to like most. Nevertheless, however, this is still a fantastic Rou Gui.


2006 Premium Rou Gui from Golden Teahouse



Golden Teahouse has two varieties of Rou Gui; one just labeled "Rou Gui" and this one, which is "Premium Rou Gui". The Premium is higher priced, but along the lines of what you pay elsewhere. This one actually surprised me for the price I paid. It is nice and rich with a slightly mature flavor that is indeed about half way between what I've experienced with 2005 and 2007 Rou Gui's, however it is perhaps a bit more solid than most; that is to say that the higher grade is noticeable. The aftertaste is definitely longer lasting than many I have had, and more complex. The big thing that betrays it's age is the noticeable charcoal flavor. The charcoal is not overpowering, but definitely up front. I would say that the charcoal flavor, while noticeable, blends quite well with the rest of the flavor and helps to prop up the traditional Rou Gui flavor profile, rather than standing apart and masking the rest. While the cassia bark flavor isn't as pronounced as it is in some other Rou Gui's I would expect this to become an exceptional aged Rou Gui, but only if I can keep it in stock that long!


2006 Premium Rou Gui from SevenCups



This tastes (and looks) exactly like the one from Golden, I suspect it may even be the same batch.


2006 Imperial Rou Gui from SevenCups



SevenCups notes that Rou Gui is picked between 8:00am and 10:00am in the morning, but the "imperial" grade is made from the specially selected leaves from the batch. Looking at the dry leaves it is indeed evident that this is a higher quality. The leaves are longer and more expertly twisted, and there are virtually no broken pieces. Additional care is evident with these leaves.

This one reminds me of the Premiums at first, but as it settles in there is a wonderful depth that is lacking from the other, lesser quality, Rou Guis. The fiery and charcoal character is significantly diminished, tamed, and becomes more of a woody character that reminds me of a very dark and beautiful wood. The cassia bark flavor is there, but it is more blended in, giving the woody character a solid shape that brings it to a subtle point with a wonderful spicy effect that feels like cinnamon as it fades. This is the first I've been able to positively attribute a cinnamon characteristic to. While it's not as noticeable as, say, the 2002 aged Rou Gui, the cassia bark flavor is definitely there, and I would say it is much more refined. The tea gives a wonderful woodgrain texture that is of better quality than most. This settles into the palate and leaves a smooth, soft, and sweet dryness that I can't quite qualify as astringency. This really is a high quality Rou Gui that is worth having for special occasions. It actually reminds me quite a bit of the Gold Medal Rou Gui. Perhaps it's not quite as refined, but the difference is not that great.


2006 Rou Gui from Hou De



This is certainly the most different and interesting of the bunch. It has a MUCH stronger roasted character that is evident in both the aroma and taste. In the aroma it is the most notable aspect, but as I inhale it begins to morph into a more familiar cherry pipe tobacco aroma that is still accompanies by a heavily roasted character. The first infusion is dominated by the roasted flavor, with only a slight hint of anything else. While it is quite pleasant, it isn't typical of Rou Gui. In later infusions, however, the roasted character diminishes to reveal a more refined and mature Rou Gui character with incredible depth and fullness of body. The aftertaste is lasting, sweet, soft, and woody, without a hint of astringency.

It reminds me quite a bit of the 2002 aged Rou Gui in that it has remarkable maturity for such a young tea. The cinnamon flavor is a bit wild and untamed, but subdued by the maturity. It is quite complex and shifting, and I think this one will be remarkably exceptional if allowed to age.


2004 Gold Medal Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



As I mentioned previously, this one does remind me of the Imperial Rou Gui from SevenCups. This is admittedly more rich and refined than any of the others, both in aroma and taste. This is a truly remarkable specimen. It has all the traits of all the others, expertly blended into a single cup -- even under less than optimal conditions. The depth is incredible, it's highly refined and mature. The aftertaste is as good as the aroma and taste with a lasting quality that shifts and allows you to really get acquainted with the flavor. It leaves only the slightest hint of dryness down the middle of the tongue, which gently cleanses the palate. The charcoal is present in the base, but is very much diminished; it's more noticeable in the aftertaste than elsewhere.

This is truly the highest quality of the bunch, but it's price is prohibitive. With that said, however, a tea connoisseur with a refined palate would do well to have some of this in the cupboard. I can only imagine how this will turn out with some additional aging.


Conclusion

I would be hard pressed to deem one a favorite over all others. Each has it's qualities for the price. Some may be better than others, but they each fit their price range quite well. If I had to choose, however, I would say that the aged Rou Gui is probably the best for the money, but I wouldn't want it to be the only Rou Gui in my cupboard either. With some age, the youngest Rou Guis will undoubtedly take on the traits of some of the others as well.