Lochan Darjeeling Samples (Black tea)

I was going to wait until I had all the samples tasted, but it's taking long enough that I thought I should post some now, rather than abuse Ankit Lochan's patience with me thus far. I only have three more to note after this, but will post them later.

I'm using roughly 4 grams in 8 oz of water that is 208 degrees. This seems to be the best set of parameters that I could find. All samples are 2nd flush, and all but one are from this year (2007).

Lochan Darjeeling Imperial

I don't think I could have picked a better one to start with because this one has broken many preconceptions I had about what makes a Darjeeling. This one is incredibly smooth with no bite. There is a slight aciditc bite that is typical of black teas, but it is rather subdued and does more to tie in the flavors than most. The aroma is dominated by muscatel, very strong, sweet, white grape aroma that is very clearly defined. The body is very very round, smooth, and sweet. This is one of the first black teas I've had that does not need any kind of sweetener, and I am sure that those who take milk in their tea would be able to forego the milk in this cup. The flavor is somewhat more complex than I am accusomed to, although still distinctly Darjeeling muscatel. It finishes with only the slightest hint of bitterness and absolutely no astringency. There is, of course, a slightly lingering muscatel aftertaste that feels like it evaporates off the tongue for several minutes.

I am highly impressed with this one, and find myself wondering what else the world of Darjeeling has to offer. I guess we'll find out!

Castleton Wiry Clonal

This one is as smooth as the last one, and also has the lack of astringency typically found in most Darjeelings. This one has a darker brew, but a slightly more subtle flavor. The flavor is a bit more well defined, however, and comes to a bit more of a point. The muscatel has a slightly more sweet-tart flavor that reminds me a bit more of darker grapes mixed in with the characteristic white grape. The flavor is a bit more complex, with the different nuances playing together in a bit more interesting way. Although it may not have quite the same level of quality as the Imperial, I think I do find the flavor a bit more interesting.

Makiabari Vintage Muscatel

This one is a bit closer to the typical Darjeelings I am used to, although it lacks the heavy astringency that I don't usually care for and it is a bit smoother. It has the famous muscatel flavor, but has a bit more of a sour note that reminds me of a wine. It does have more of the bite that is typical of black teas than the previous ones. While it does not have much astringency, it does leave the surface of the tongue a bit dry. While this one doesn't have the greatest complexity, it does have a nice round maturity that is true to the name.

Lochan Oolong Imperial

Now we're more in the realm of my home field: oolong. I've had some cheaper Indian oolong, including a more generic Darjeeling oolong and wasn't very impressed. While this still isn't something I would choose over a baozhong, Wuyi yan cha, or gaoshan, I was still pleasantly surprised. It has a nice mellowness that is not unexpected from an oolong. It is rather sweet flavor with a heavily subdued muscatel note in the center and a texture that is like a very light wood. In a way the woody aspect almost reminds me of the inside skin of tree bark, in a strange way, including the rusty color that matches the color of the infusion. The aftertaste begins with a quick bloom of sweetness that quickly fades to a fairly pronounced drying. The dryness is a bit more than I typically like in a tea, but it's not a profound astringency.

Margaret's Hope Muscatel Delight - 2006 & 2007

2007

Well I kind of messed up on this one. I tried using more leaf, as per Ankit Lochan's recommendation on the Tea Nerd blog, but it came out horribly bitter. I can't help but think that brewing like this may be for those that like to add milk to their tea, which I do not care for (although I will use sugar sometimes). Unfortunately I used most of the sample, but I did have some left. I mixed the last 1.5 grams of dry leaf that I had left with some of the already-steeped leaves from the first round, and between the two infusions I think I have an approximation of what it should taste like.

This one is more of the typical Darjeelings that I'm used to, although the dry leaf was a bit darker than most of what I have seen elsewhere. It has the usual astringency that is typical of Darjeelings, although it's not totally out of balance. I've found that I can take bigger sips of the tea to keep it from becoming to unpleasant for my tastes. This one can be felt in the back of the throat, which I like (but wasn't attuned to until recently). The muscatel is quite pronounced, and was noticeable with the cup a few feet away. This one is a bit more "wild" than some of the previous ones, however. It's not quite as mature or refined, but I would call it a good basic Darjeeling. One thing it does have that I don't find as much of in the others is a slightly woody character that seems to provide the foundation for the muscatel.

2006

I actually like this one a bit better than the newer one. I am actually noticing a slightly more "green" vegetal aspect instead of the woody character. This one is a bit better refined - perhaps a year of age has helped it a bit. I would also say it's a bit rounder and smoother, and the muscatel is in better harmony with the rest. The astringency is not as pronounced, and does more to clean the palate than really dry it out. The muscatel is a bit strange to try to describe, but it's like a purple grape flavor in a white grape body. The flavor overall is quite full.

Big thanks to Ankit Lochan for the samples! I will get the others tasted and reviewed as soon as possible.

Half-Dipper Tasting

Although I'm a bit late posting them, here's my notes from the 3 unnamed puerh tasting samples from Dragon TeaHouse, arranged by Hobbes of the Half-Dipper blog. Big thanks to both Dragon TeaHouse and Hobbes!


Red

I had a bit of a hard time getting this one steeped to a right balance. The first was a bit too light, although it was sweet and smooth, the second was powerfully bitter but with some sugar was nice, thick with a very slight smoky note in the aroma and a taste of light wood, mushrooms, and a light citrusy tang. I think there's some slight floral vegetal notes in the taste, but they are more of a nuance than a defining character. The third infusion I think I finally got right. The bitterness is present, but not entirely off-putting. It actually remains a bit subdued, just under the surface, until the finish when it blooms for just a couple of seconds and fades into a nice sweetness. In this infusion I can get some vague glimpses of vegetation surrounding the tea trees, but it's hard to tease them apart enough to identify. The aftertaste seems to produce a hit of rubber, and has very little astringency.

Overall this is a relatively lively but subdued sheng. It's not something I would drink often young, but it may be interesting to see how it develops with some age. It's not particularly striking, but it's certainly better than many cheap young shengs I have tried. Perhaps a decent choice as a basic addition to a collection for storage.

Blue

Unfortunately I had something of a hard time with this one. When I first got the samples I wanted to try each one first before taking notes, rather than writing and tasting one at a time. I really really liked this one, but the second time around I kept getting very bitter brews without the same sweetness of the first. I realized that beyond the first tasting, the rest of the sample got broken up to bits, with even a fair amount of dust, which was probably due to the shipping. This, of course, makes it more bitter and astringent than it would otherwise be. So unfortunately I was unable to reproduce what I liked so much about the first one I had, so I have to go with what I have and try to remember what I'm missing. I'm adding a bit of sugar to try to make up for some of the changes as well.

The dry leaf has an almost minty aroma that is quite refreshing in itself, along with a character that I can only describe as being not unlike the smell of new books (in a good way). I suspect there's some rubber tree in there, but it's not too strong unless that's the book smell. The infusion carries much the same aroma, although the rubber tree is a bit more pronounced.

The taste is quite wild, which is expected for a young sheng, but not overpowering like many others. It's actually fairly smooth, and doesn't make my face flush or cause any pucker. While it doesn't have a lot of viscosity, it seems to coat the tongue and cleanse the palate, although there is not a lot of astringency. It is quite sweet, with a citrusy flavor not entirely unlike grapefruit. I believe there is some floral notes buried in there somewhere, but it can be hard for me to pick out in a young sheng - perhaps it's just that it stimulates the same areas of the mouth that something floral would.

I would be interested to see how this one ages. I'm really regretting not taking notes on the first round, and will have to make sure to do so next time, even if I don't intend to actually do the write-up until later. I may just have to purchase a cake of this, once we know what it is.

Green

Luckily this sample seems to have made it here fully intact. I don't detect any broken leaves whatsoever, which also leads me to believe that the cake is relatively loose and easy to pull apart. I think perhaps I should also mention that I picked out a number of buds to go in this round, which do seem to have tamed and sweetened this round compared to my initial tasting. I tried to keep it balanced with what I could see throughout the sample, but it's entirely possible that I used more than what would normally be used. I will be interested in seeing what the cake looks like whole. It can be difficult to get the same proportion of the different leaves when they're entirely loose.

The aroma in the dry leaf of this one impressed me. It had a nice aroma of what I assume to be camphor trees, and not just camphor alone but the whole tree. Unfortunately the aroma didn't carry over into the infusion as well as the blue sample did, but to be fair it is there a bit, but is accompanied by something that reminds me of Italian spices, but rather softened and tamed.

The taste in the first infusion is rather smooth and not over-powering. There is a slight bitterness that swells up momentarily as it goes down the throat, but it fades as quickly as it comes and does so before becoming unpleasant in any real way. There are several flavors coming together in this one, and it's a bit difficult for me to tease them apart. I would still say there is an undercurrent of Italian spices, but it's not exactly a defining characteristic. There is a bit of citrus in it, and with a bit of sugar it reminds me of mandarin orange, accompanied by what I can only call a "wild green" flavor and a slight grain texture. None of the flavors really come out over any of the others, they are all in equal proportions and the entire experience is fairly tame. There is a slight thickness to it, but it's not particularly pronounced either and seems to be responsible for the light grain texture. The aftertaste leaves a little dryness, but not too much and it dissipates fairly quickly.

The second infusion washed out some of the 'wild green', brought out more of the mushroom and tobacco notes that I see other tasters commenting on, reduced the thick and grainy aspects, and shifted the bitterness to well into the aftertaste. The aftertaste in subsequent infusions also seem to be getting more into the sinuses - a not unpleasant experience that seems to open up my nasal passages a bit and tingle the back of my throat a bit.

The third tastes much more like the first, curiously. The bitterness is more up front in this one. I would say it's equally smooth with the second infusion, but a bit thinner. With a little sugar I'm noticing a hint of tobacco or rubber and some various fruits - the previous flavors are mixed together equally and relegated to an undercurrent. At this point I'm starting to notice that energetic quality, but lucky for me it's still the middle of the day.

While the blue was more immediately pleasing, I liked this one for the complexity that comes out through the different infusions. Individual infusions were not particularly complex, but I was struck by the changes in each. I would say that this one is overall pleasant, and I like that each infusion brings out different nuances without the overall quality deteriorating. A very interesting one indeed.

Snow Dragon (Green Tea)

While I was still working on two reviews for different sets of samples, the Half-Dipper and Lochan Teas' (I'll have the former posted in the next few days and I'm still actively working on the latter), I decided to wrap up a late night with a little Snow Dragon, and felt inspired to write.

This is Snow Dragon green tea from TeaCuppa.

(I got a better camera, can you tell?)

As you can see from the pictures, this one is entirely composed of white tips. True to it's looks, it almost tastes like a white tea, although it does have a more green profile than most white teas. It is considered a green tea, however, which is indeed more true to the tea, even if only slightly so.

I had nearly forgotten about this one; it is very nice. It's quite light and sweet, enough so that adding any sweetener would ruin it. The aroma is crisp and vegetal. The taste is also crisp and vegetal, with a hint of something floral and fruity, but in a subdued and elusive way. The white down from the buds are quite noticeable, making it quite smooth and soft. The taste actually reminds me quite a bit of Snow Bud, but a bit more pointed, green, and thinner. The lack of viscosity is, however, made up for with the downy hairs. What really sets this one apart, however, is the aftertaste. It leaves a clean dryness that is not at all unpleasant, but actually stimulates the mouth to water, which produces a wonderfully sweet flavor.

It reminds me of being in a meadow after a warm spring rain, when the air is clean and it's neither too hot nor too cold. The overall experience of this tea is well defined as being clean and pure. It's also a rather forgiving tea. I have yet to brew a bitter cup of this, although sometimes it has left my mouth and throat a bit dryer than I would like after the aftertaste fades.

Overall this is one to keep around, and makes an excellent nighttime tea. I could see this one as an after-dinner tea as well. I very much like this one, however those that find white teas to be too 'bland' may not like it. If you want something that's half way in between a white and green tea, however, you can't go wrong with this.

Gushing praise for my Zoji

http://www.zojirushi.com

A few months ago I got one of THESE, and ever since then I have not been able to contain my enthusiasm when the subject of new kettles comes up. So rather than continually ranting whenever someone asks for a recommendation on a new kettle, I thought I'd just make a post about why I recommend the Zojirushi. If you're not interested in reading a gushing rant about why I like the Zoji so much, then you can skip this post.

Zojirushi has several models with a few sizes of each. I just got the standard 3 liter model, which you can see in the link above. The main features that make Zoji's worth while are:

• Has three temperature settings: 208, 195, and 175 degrees Fahrenheit
• Maintains the proper temperature all day long
  
• Has a digital temperature readout to show you the current temperature
• Dechlorinates water by bringing it to a boil slowly
• Saves a lot of energy
• Has a 7 hour timer
• Has a 1 year warranty, and is made for continual use

The Zoji is a bit expensive, however it should pay for itself in the long-run and is one of the only purchases that I have been glad I made just about every day. While most things end up being taken for granted after it stops being new and shiny, this is one item that I have never stopped appreciating on a daily basis.

It works by bringing the water to a (relatively) slow boil, then lets it cool to the temperature that you set it to and keeps it there. You put the cup/teapot under the nozzle and dispense by pressing the "Unlock" and then the "Pour" button. The "Unlock" button prevents anyone from accidentally pressing the button to pour when there's nothing for the water to go into. I'm sure this also provides some rudimentary child-resistance.

The first and foremost thing that I like so much about it is that I always have water ready and waiting, and at just the right temperature. Having it ready when I first wake up is very very nice. At the end of the day I set the 7 hour timer, so it powers the device off but has water ready when I wake up. When I wake up I can just put some shu (cooked puerh) in my infuser cup, pour hot water in, and walk to my desk. The tea is ready to drink by the time I reach my desk, so the first cup in the morning only takes as long to make as it takes me to walk to the kitchen and then back to my desk.

It doesn't have it's own spill tray underneath, so I decided to put a small-ish bamboo gongfu tray under it to catch any spills (I'm using the "large" bamboo tray from SensationalTeas.com, which is a very well-made tray that is made for frequent use and does not seem to warp easily). The Zoji is very good at not dripping, however I can't say the same for myself.

I could have just as easily used a folded kitchen towel, however the added benefit of the bamboo tray is that it actually got me doing gongfu brewing on a more regular basis. While it may detract from the experience in a more ceremonial setting, it is perfectly suited (not to mention convenient) for when you just want a good cup of tea brewed 'right'. Rather than having to clear a space and set everything up, I can now do gongfu brewing on a more casual basis, even when I'm short on time. The variable temperature settings does help this, however I've found that keeping the Zoji set to 208 is perfect for me. If I pour into a room temperature cup/pot, then the water immediately drops to 180, which is perfect for green teas and not bad for some of the greener wulongs. If I'm going to brew something a bit darker, I simply rinse the vessel with hot water to preheat it. Since the Zoji keeps the water at the same temperature at all times, I've found that I only need to use a thermometer the first time I use a new cup or pot to see how much it cools it off, unless I am making something like Gyokuro that requires an unusual temperature. I've found it very easy to pour over the side of a gaiwan, as well as letting it splash down into the vessel if appropriate. I can also easily position a yixing pot underneath the nozzle (on the bamboo tray) to pour hot water over the outside of the teapot.

I do usually filter water with my Brita before pouring it in the Zoji to heat, however this is mostly out of habit. I guess I use it primarily to keep the unit as clean as possible, but to be honest I've not noticed the difference when I put plain tapwater in it. The fact that the Zoji dechlorinates the water does make better tea. Unfortunately the Brita only removes chlorine smell, and does not actually dechlorinate the water fully, so the Zoji does make a noticeable improvement even over water filtered in the Brita.

The fact that it saves energy is also a huge plus. They say that the Zoji uses a combined total of approximately 500 watts per day, instead of the 1500 watts per boil of traditional electric kettles. Obviously this will save money on the electric bill for those of us that drink a lot of tea. They have a more expensive model that also creates a vacuum to reduce heat loss. If you remember high-school physics, then you will recall that heat cannot transfer through a vacuum, so even less electricity is needed to maintain the temperature you set.

At first it might seem inconvenient that the Zoji takes 25 mins, or so, to boil water, however keep in mind that it then maintains the water at that temperature all day long, so you don't have to wait. This is also why the timer is 7 hours instead of 8, so that it's fully ready when you wake up. I also top it off when it gets about half way down, which reduces the time it takes to warm it up and also keeps the water fresh.

One of the common problems with electric kettles is the quality. I'm always hearing about people having their electric kettle die out on them after a couple months. While I've only had mine for a few months now, I can say that it is working just as well now as when I got it, and I have not yet heard anyone ever talk about a Zoji dying on them (and I've heard from several people with Zoji's, who are also as enthusiastic about it as I am). These are made for the Asian market, to be used by folks that drink tons of tea every day. The local tea shop that I frequent uses one in the store for brewing up samples (gongfu style), as well as frequently having tea with employees from neighboring stores in the shopping center. So while I can't say that I've been using mine for years, I think I can say that I am quite confident with the quality.

So the bottom line is that the Zoji provides an immeasurable amount of convenience, produces better tasting tea, and even saves money on electricity and filters. What probably makes me appreciate it most frequently is that it allows me to make tea when I would otherwise not have time to do so, even allowing me to make good tea when I might have to otherwise settle for teabags.

So that's it: my gushing rave review for my favorite kitchen appliance. If you are looking to buy a new electric kettle anytime soon, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Zoji. I know they're a bit expensive to buy, but they are more than worth it in the end.

Rou Gui (Wuyi Yan Cha Wulong) Marathon

Rou Gui is one of the five famous Wuyi wulongs (previously four). It is renowned for having a rich aroma and taste that is much like cassia bark. Cassia is another variety of cinnamon, and so Rou Gui is often compared with cinnamon. While I do see the similarity, I have had a hard time defining the aroma of Rou Gui as cinnamon, but some are more so than others. Each Rou Gui has it's own unique character. Some have much more of a cassia bark character than others, some are more roasted than others, but all are distinctly Rou Gui. I decided to do a large comparison to show how much variation there can be between different sources, and I also believe that such a large comparison will do more to help convey the essence of what Rou Gui really is, at least more than a single review can do.

I wanted to add a couple more, but have been holding out on this one for long enough. I will, however, try to add them to this post as I get them, and make a note that I have done so. Unfortunately I decided to do this review in the summer, which has a tendency to interfere with Wuyi wulongs in general, but Rou Gui especially. As such it has taken me longer to do this comparison than usual, and I've also had to rely partially on memory from drinking these teas on cooler days.


2005 Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



This was the first Rou Gui that I had ever tried, and so it became the standard by which I judge all others. As such, it's only fitting that I mention this one first.

For a start, my initial perception (which continues to date, albeit from a different perspective) is that it smells more like cherry pipe tobacco than cinnamon. It certainly does have a sort of cinnamon bark type profile, but the deeper and sweeter aspects of it remind me more of a dark cherry pipe tobacco with a heavily roasted character. This is actually one of life's more pleasant fragrances to me, and as I grew up with the aroma as a small child I may be a little biased. To me it's a wonderful and comforting aroma. I do indeed understand why some would consider it a more cinnamon smell, but I simply think that there is more to appreciate than cinnamon.

Even though this has aged a couple years, it still has quite an up-front, wild, fiery character; perhaps slightly tamed. The cassia bark flavor is very noticeable, and enhanced by the characteristic Wuyi acidity that creates a "wood grain" texture on the tongue and settles into a slight astringency in the finish. There is a slight bitterness that tingles the back edges of the tongue without dominating the flavor. The aroma is impressive and really adds to the experience of this tea. The aftertaste is interesting; it's fruity, dry, and reveals the roasting more than any other time, and lasts for quite a while. The body is starting to develop the smoothness of an aged Wuyi, but it's not quite there yet. Perhaps another year or two. Nevertheless, this is a great one for drinking now. As tempting as it is to drink regularly I may decide to let this one age and come back to it next year, as I will be hard pressed to get much more of it. Subsequent infusions give a vague and hazy glance at what it may become.

This one reminds me of a large fireplace in an old dark library with overstuffed leather chairs, a pipe burning itself out in the ashtray on an old dark wood table, with the fire dimly illuminating only the edges of various shapes in the room.


2007 Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



I had a harder time with this one, but I think it may be mainly because it was not what I was expecting. This one is a lighter Rou Gui, with greener leaves and a more pale orange liquor. I don't get nearly as much aroma from this one, although it certainly is there. This one does, however, have more of what I would consider to be a cinnamon profile. It affects the upper palate the same way that cinnamon does, tingling and stimulating the roof of your mouth almost to the back of your throat. Despite the paler liquor, it definitely has a wild and fiery character that is quite notable, revealing it's youth. Unfortunately the taste is a bit dominated by the charcoal taste common to young Wuyi's, however it does not stand in the way of enjoying this tea, and definitely does not reduce it to the level of common cheap/mediocre Wuyi's by any means. The aftertaste is lasting, sweet, and spicy. It has only the very slightest hint of astringency that is barely noticeable and prompts a bit of salivation to compensate. It's definitely not as satisfying as the 2005, however with some age I'm sure it could turn into something great.

This one reminds me of a bonfire next to the sea at the untamed Oregon coast in the very late summer. It's not the smells, but rather the visceral sensations of being affronted by the spectrum of various forces of nature and the ambivalence between our ability to control it and our utter vulnerability to it.


2002 Aged Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



This one comes in a sealed packet inside a nice box, and has 5 years of aging under it's belt -- and it shows. This is actually the best Rou Gui I have found to date. I even like it better than many of the more expensive ones. The cassia bark taste and aroma are well developed, mature, and deep-seated in a very nice, smooth complexity. The fire and charcoal have calmed way down, and play more of a supporting role that remind you more of the glowing embers. Although this one has no real viscosity, it melts into your tongue and leaves it feeling coated with roasted sweetness, which is not entirely uncommon in well aged Wuyi's. The taste is well defined. The cassia bark takes a deep seat among the roasted goodness, but remains well defined and comes to a very slightly bitter point that wakes up your taste buds. In the aftertaste this melts slowly and smoothly into a nice sweetness that lasts for some time.

If I was to choose just one word to sum this one up, it would definitely be 'mature'. While this one has provided the most consistency, it does not remain entirely unaffected by environmental conditions. Unfortunately hot and humid weather tend to steal some of the aroma and depth in taste of Wuyi wulongs in general. I picked an unfortunate time to brew this one today, as it is now starting to warm up a bit and steal some of the depth from my cup during the infusions I tend to like most. Nevertheless, however, this is still a fantastic Rou Gui.


2006 Premium Rou Gui from Golden Teahouse



Golden Teahouse has two varieties of Rou Gui; one just labeled "Rou Gui" and this one, which is "Premium Rou Gui". The Premium is higher priced, but along the lines of what you pay elsewhere. This one actually surprised me for the price I paid. It is nice and rich with a slightly mature flavor that is indeed about half way between what I've experienced with 2005 and 2007 Rou Gui's, however it is perhaps a bit more solid than most; that is to say that the higher grade is noticeable. The aftertaste is definitely longer lasting than many I have had, and more complex. The big thing that betrays it's age is the noticeable charcoal flavor. The charcoal is not overpowering, but definitely up front. I would say that the charcoal flavor, while noticeable, blends quite well with the rest of the flavor and helps to prop up the traditional Rou Gui flavor profile, rather than standing apart and masking the rest. While the cassia bark flavor isn't as pronounced as it is in some other Rou Gui's I would expect this to become an exceptional aged Rou Gui, but only if I can keep it in stock that long!


2006 Premium Rou Gui from SevenCups



This tastes (and looks) exactly like the one from Golden, I suspect it may even be the same batch.


2006 Imperial Rou Gui from SevenCups



SevenCups notes that Rou Gui is picked between 8:00am and 10:00am in the morning, but the "imperial" grade is made from the specially selected leaves from the batch. Looking at the dry leaves it is indeed evident that this is a higher quality. The leaves are longer and more expertly twisted, and there are virtually no broken pieces. Additional care is evident with these leaves.

This one reminds me of the Premiums at first, but as it settles in there is a wonderful depth that is lacking from the other, lesser quality, Rou Guis. The fiery and charcoal character is significantly diminished, tamed, and becomes more of a woody character that reminds me of a very dark and beautiful wood. The cassia bark flavor is there, but it is more blended in, giving the woody character a solid shape that brings it to a subtle point with a wonderful spicy effect that feels like cinnamon as it fades. This is the first I've been able to positively attribute a cinnamon characteristic to. While it's not as noticeable as, say, the 2002 aged Rou Gui, the cassia bark flavor is definitely there, and I would say it is much more refined. The tea gives a wonderful woodgrain texture that is of better quality than most. This settles into the palate and leaves a smooth, soft, and sweet dryness that I can't quite qualify as astringency. This really is a high quality Rou Gui that is worth having for special occasions. It actually reminds me quite a bit of the Gold Medal Rou Gui. Perhaps it's not quite as refined, but the difference is not that great.


2006 Rou Gui from Hou De



This is certainly the most different and interesting of the bunch. It has a MUCH stronger roasted character that is evident in both the aroma and taste. In the aroma it is the most notable aspect, but as I inhale it begins to morph into a more familiar cherry pipe tobacco aroma that is still accompanies by a heavily roasted character. The first infusion is dominated by the roasted flavor, with only a slight hint of anything else. While it is quite pleasant, it isn't typical of Rou Gui. In later infusions, however, the roasted character diminishes to reveal a more refined and mature Rou Gui character with incredible depth and fullness of body. The aftertaste is lasting, sweet, soft, and woody, without a hint of astringency.

It reminds me quite a bit of the 2002 aged Rou Gui in that it has remarkable maturity for such a young tea. The cinnamon flavor is a bit wild and untamed, but subdued by the maturity. It is quite complex and shifting, and I think this one will be remarkably exceptional if allowed to age.


2004 Gold Medal Rou Gui from TeaCuppa



As I mentioned previously, this one does remind me of the Imperial Rou Gui from SevenCups. This is admittedly more rich and refined than any of the others, both in aroma and taste. This is a truly remarkable specimen. It has all the traits of all the others, expertly blended into a single cup -- even under less than optimal conditions. The depth is incredible, it's highly refined and mature. The aftertaste is as good as the aroma and taste with a lasting quality that shifts and allows you to really get acquainted with the flavor. It leaves only the slightest hint of dryness down the middle of the tongue, which gently cleanses the palate. The charcoal is present in the base, but is very much diminished; it's more noticeable in the aftertaste than elsewhere.

This is truly the highest quality of the bunch, but it's price is prohibitive. With that said, however, a tea connoisseur with a refined palate would do well to have some of this in the cupboard. I can only imagine how this will turn out with some additional aging.


Conclusion

I would be hard pressed to deem one a favorite over all others. Each has it's qualities for the price. Some may be better than others, but they each fit their price range quite well. If I had to choose, however, I would say that the aged Rou Gui is probably the best for the money, but I wouldn't want it to be the only Rou Gui in my cupboard either. With some age, the youngest Rou Guis will undoubtedly take on the traits of some of the others as well.

TChing Tasting

I was originally going to include some pictures, however the fact is that you've probably already seen them from everyone else's notes. My notes are brief, but here they are. A big 'thank you' to TChing for the samples!

Meghma Nepalese Oolong
I don't want to spend a lot of time on this one because I don't believe I can give it a fair analysis. To me this tastes very much like a Bai Hao, which is, quite simply, not really my cup -- not bad, just not my personal preference. It is a relatively high-oxidation oolong that is quite smooth with a sweet and sour fruity body that is a bit like grapes. Someone that is accustomed to black teas wishing to try something different would do well to try something like this. My personal preference, however, is something less oxidized with a more floral aroma. To be fair, however, it is a bit smoother and well balanced than most bai hao's I've had.

Snowbud
This one, on the other hand, is absolutely delightful. At first this reminded me of a white peony, light and floral, but it also has a slightly fruity note to it. Grapes perhaps? It's almost just a shillouette of a fruit that is hard to define, but nevertheless adds quite a bit. I was surprised to find that this tea has some viscosity, which is something that I love in my teas and have not found in a white tea before. The aroma, and less so taste, does have a slight vegetal quality to it as well, as the silver needle-like appearance of the dry leaf suggests. It is light and sweet, without any smokiness that is often found in other white teas, with a round body and a very slight astringency in the aftertaste. I find this to have a greater complexity than most white teas, with different nuances noted with each sip. A great one overall.

Shan Shui Teas

http://www.shanshuiteas.com

This is a vendor I found looking for some new baozhongs one day, and was especially impressed with their inventory. They had a number of things that I had not heard of before, nevertheless seen anything like. They specialize in wulongs from Taiwan, and have some particularly interesting stuff. They have two basic grades: superior and premium. Superior grade means that the tea is made year-round. It's a good quality, but not particular to any single season. It's pretty consistent, year round. Premium, on the other hand, means that particular one is seasonal, so each batch may be quite different, and is of exceptional quality. Obviously the Premium teas cost more, but after getting used to the prices for top grade teas overall, they're actually pretty reasonable.

Rather than write about each tea individually, I thought it would be worthwhile to provide notes on everything that I got from this store, giving a "review" of both the vendor and the teas.

The first thing to note was that when I ordered the teas, I ordered most of them in tins. Within a few hours, I got an email letting me know that everything was ready, but they didn't have the big tins and wanted to know if it was okay to send without and reimburse me for the price difference of the tins. I asked if he had smaller ones, and he threw in enough to store all of them without charging me anymore. Everything was then shipped promptly and received quickly. We also had a brief exchange, in which he was very friendly and open. Having worked in customer service positions for longer than I care to admit, I was quite impressed! So, now on to the teas...

Premium Winter 2006 Yinya

This is my favorite, so it's the one I will describe in greatest detail. The Yinya is basically a bao zhong, but they include silver tips. The wet leaves are nice and thick, which would be due to the winter environment. In some ways it's kind of an ambivalent bao zhong, being both deeper, smoother, and sweeter, but also with some greener characteristics in the taste. This is one of the best Formosa (Taiwan, for the novice that may not know) wulongs I've ever had. It's very floral, sweet, smooth, and well defined. The aroma is very floral (albeit light, as with most Formosa wulongs), and has the characteristics of the high grade high-mountain wulongs and bao zhongs. It is distinctive from most that come from Taiwan, mostly as it has a slightly different orchid aroma than most. The aftertaste is quick to bloom into a floral sweetness, with a very mild drying effect that makes your mouth water more - a rare quality usually found in only the highest grade teas. It's also relatively forgiving, although over-steeping may eliminate the nuances and aftertaste.

It's definitely a treat, and a must-try for bao zhong lovers. Absolutely divine. Half of me wants to drink this every day, the other wants to savor it.

Premium Winter 2005 Lanyun
This is simply a very fine and light bao zhong. Shan Shui explains that the name is used to distinguish bao zhongs that exhibit a particular orchid aroma, and it shows. It is lighter than most, with a very pale liquor. I usually like my wulongs a bit thicker and more flavorful, but this one has an outstanding balance that I've not found elsewhere. This is one that I save for quiet moments, as I only got a small amount.

Superior Cuiyu (Spring 2006)
This is a more typical rolled Formosa wulong, but it definitely has it's own unique character. It comes in rolled pellets that are a bit smaller than most from the region. As Hobbes notes in the comments, it's actually grown at a lower elevation, which actually explains a lot. In some ways it's like a Huang Jin Gui (which is actually from Anxi, China), but with Formosa dimensions. Shan Shui describes it as having more of a green tea flavor profile, and I can nod along to that. It doesn't have the sharpness of a green, but it does have that light flavor that is well defined. While this one does have an orchid aroma, it's a different kind of orchid that I've not found before. It's an orchid with very well defined character with very different dimensions. While others are very much just "round", giving you the impression of the top of a circle, this one gives you more the impression of a vase with a bulb at the bottom. It has a sweet, floral, medium thick, and round body with thin high-notes that have a lot to do with the aroma. The high notes are not bitterness in anyway (as it would be with a green tea), but do give a fresh green taste. It does have a very very slight and nuanced toasty/grainy/nutty flavor, that is more like that of a green tea such as yun wu -- I think that is what gives it the similarity to a green tea. This one is also an excellent value for the money. Highly recommended for everyday drinking for Formosa wulong lovers, or green tea lovers that want a good introduction to Formosa wulongs.

Superior & Premium Summer 2007 Baihao
I didn't realize what baihao ("white filament" or "white tip") was until I got it (also known as "Oriental Beauty" or "Eastern Beauty", also written in Chinese as "Dongfang meiren", per Brian from Shan Shui, and sometimes called "Champagne Oolong"). It's a Formosa wulong that is large pieces of mostly flat leaves with some rolled about half way to what you see with a bao zhong. It is quite a bit more oxidized, but has some less oxidized leaves as well, and the ones from Shan Shui include a fair amount of white tips.

To give some background, I had been drinking the one from SpecialTeas (which was simply called "Formosa Fancy Oolong"), and considered that a "staple" tea to drink in the morning, before I was awake enough to really appreciate the taste of finer teas. It's grainy, fruity, and slightly floral, all in an understated way. Kind of like a fine black tea, in some ways, but lighter and much smoother, and without the bitterness or acidity. The higher-grade baihao from SpecialTeas was much the same, but each of the flavors would bloom and jump out at you individually, but in rapid succession. Quite nice. The lesser quality has the same qualities, but are much more muted and blended into a more even flavor with less complexity.

These ones, from Shan Shui, were distinctive in that they contain a fair amount of white tips and much more carefully processed leaves. The flavor is somewhere in between the two from SpecialTeas, but with their own distinctive sharpness. The Premium is definitely nicer, with greater complexity, but I do miss the blooming sweet flavors that I had before. The Premium is definitely a higher quality, but otherwise relatively similar to the superior.

Unfortunately I don't have a whole lot to say about this one, as it's not one of my favorites. I probably won't get it again, but that is purely my own individual tastes. I can very definitely see why some people like the baihao, but I simply like the wulongs with lighter oxidation, thicker mouth-feel, and more fragrant floral aroma and taste. The way I've come to see it is that if you approach it with the same expectations as a relatively plain black tea, then you will quite likely enjoy it. If you like baihao, then you would very likely appreciate this one. Unfortunately my lack of appreciation holds me back from really appreciating the nuances and complexities of it, and giving a description that is up to my own standards. It's palatable, even pleasant, I just can't get into it. Maybe someday.


Conclusion

With my experiences so far, I am highly impressed with this vendor and their teas. I am very happy to have what I got in my collection, and look very forward to trying some of the other things they have. Shan Shui teas may not have the biggest selection, but what they do have appears to have been carefully chosen to include some of the best, and distinguish the vendor from others in what they carry. I do highly recommend this vendor, and I definitely plan to return!

Jun Shan Yin Zhen

I told someone that I would post this a while ago, but then it got to be 90-100 degrees out and I didn't feel much like reviewing teas. I've got my air-conditioners going now, however, and I'm back up and running again.

Jun Shan Yin Zhen is one of the 10 most famous teas in China. It's a yellow tea, and a very very interesting one. It is also one that gets faked a LOT. The Mt. Jun (Jun Shan) tea company apparently just bought every farm on the mountain, but there are many variants that get sold as Jun Shan Yin Zhen when they are not. The most common is Jun Shan Qing Zhen, which means Mt. Jun Green Needle (whereas Yin Zhen means Silver Needle). This is a green tea, which is easier to produce and may produce better looking leaves. There are others as well, and here is the explanation I received from TeaSpring when I contacted them:

"The most common tea that vendors try to sell off as Jun Shan Yin Zhen is Fu Jian Yin Zhen. They look almost similar except that Jun Shan's fur is shorter and yellowish in color. Jun Shan Tea Co. Ltd. recently bought all the tea leaves grown and picked in Jun Shan Island so only Jun Shan Yin Zhen from this company is authentic. But not all teas produced by them are Jun Shan Yin Zhen. Lower grade tea leaves are used to make Jun Shan Mao Jian (with leaves). Only high grade single buds are used to make Jun Shan Yin Zhen. And others are like Cui Ya and Qing Zhen teas.

Jun Shan Qing Zhen is a new type of tea. Some vendors try to sell this off as the more expensive Jun Shan Yin Zhen also but not as common as Fu Jian. Jun Shan Qing Zhen has a very obvious smoky taste so if you are interested in teas with smoky but clean taste, you might want to give this a try."

I first bought a small amount from TeaSpring, which came in this very attractive tin with anti-fake label from the farm.

Click for hi-res

I was interested in getting more, but wanted to see if I could find some a bit cheaper. I found some from TeaCuppa, but this turned out to be something different. Here you can see a side-by-side comparison between the two:

Click for hi-res
TeaSpring's on the left, TeaCuppa's on the right.

So what's the difference? Well I just got my professional tea tasting set from Hou De and am now well acquainted with my new Zojirushi hot water dispenser, so this seems like a perfect opportunity to try it out! You can see the tasting set HERE. Functionally it's quite similar to a gaiwan, but a little easier to use and comes with a nice cup and a spoon for taking in the aroma. This tea doesn't have a lot of aroma, so I'll not be using the spoon for this session.


Teaspring's -

This is a very shy tea with a complex personality. It's a light yellow tea, but it's unlike anything I've had before.

Starting on the tip of your tongue, you think it will be a simple yellow tea, but that only lasts for a split second. You're greeted with a warm, smooth, and almost thick sweetness, but it quickly proceeds to stimulate all of the different kinds of taste buds; flirting with the salty buds without giving more than a peck on the cheek it races past sour, to a smoky and spicy bitterness on the back of your tongue that quickly morphs and evaporates, and passes through umami like a ghost leaving a wisp of smoky body. Sweet wakes up somewhere along the way, but unlike it's siblings it was much slower to wake. While the others are discussing the experience, sweet is looking around wondering what happened, milling about with blurry eyes. The smoky character evaporates very quickly, and manifests mostly in the back of the throat, and leaves a sensation that reminds me of black pepper (perhaps with a bit of another spice), but only momentarily. At the same time a nice and smooth "green" quality sinks into the tongue, passing through it and leaving a clean astringency. Some time later, sweet has made it to the breakfast table. The others have left the table, but can be heard in the next room.

Fleeting away as quickly as it came this tea taunts you, not letting you get to know it, and teasing you to into a game of hide and seek. When it's finished it cleans your palate more than any tea I've had before, and invites you to try again. This is the first astringency that I've had that really left my mouth feeling this clean, and unlike some it is not unpleasant at all.

The after taste transcends the palate, evaporating and rising above the palate to just underneath and behind your nostrils, while the body seems to sink down through your tongue.

This is a very ephemeral and curious tea. It's very complex, and hard to pin down or tease apart. I was lucky today, you can't always get these complexities to come out; sometimes it tastes like little more than a plain yellow tea like huang ya. When it does come out to play, however, there are three main things that identify this tea: smoky/spicy, smooth, and clean -- very clean. In fact, I would say this has a "cleaner" character than any other tea I've had to date. I would say, however, that the smoky/spicy character is unlike the kind of smoky flavor that some people object to. If that is a turn-off to you, I wouldn't let it turn you off from this tea. It really is unlike anything else that I know of, and the smoky aspect is very clean and fleeting; it's gone before you could object.


TeaCuppa's -

This one is very much different. It's much lighter, and much more like the traditional silver needle white tea that it's appearance suggests. It's not a particularly complex tea. It has the nice, light, and clean "green" taste that is common to white teas. What separates it from other white teas is primarily it's crystal clarity. The smoky complexity is there if you pay close attention. It starts with a clean and pure vegetal grassiness, and fades into a very light smokiness that is much more subtle, faint, even ephemeral, and fleeting. The complexity is ephemeral enough that if you didn't know what to look for, you might not even notice it. It's in the aroma as well, but just as elusive as in the taste. These can be brought out a little with a little extra steeping or leaf, but you do have to watch to not over-steep it and bring out too much astringency.

I feel that I should note here that this isn't like the elusive, subtle, and fleeting nature of the first; with that one it is very much noticeable, striking, and unmistakable, it's simply very transient and hard to pin down. The aroma and aftertaste are also quite light, and not strong enough to really define the tea, although you do get some back retro-nasally from the back of the throat. Overall it is definitely a pleasant white tea, and great for quiet and pensive evenings. In fact a person with sophisticated tastes and an affinity for white teas would find this a great tea, but unfortunately it's not the same.

Notes and Conclusion -

I should also note here that I wrote this over the span of two nights, one for each tasting. I have noticed that there are times that the smoky/spicy character of the one from TeaSpring is not always easy to achieve, sometimes it does taste a bit more like the one from TeaCuppa.

I asked TeaSpring about how I could bring the spicy/smoky character out, and here was their reply:

"The answer to your first question is a bit tricky. The same tea can have different taste and experience depending on many factors such as what you just ate or drank previously. Even mood and weather are known to cause a different experience as well. Unlike other smoky teas, Jun shan Yin Zhen smokiness is very subtle and is a fleeting taste before changing into a sweet aftertaste. It's easier to catch the smoky character in your breath after a sip. Perhaps using more leaves to brew a heavier tea will enable you to catch it."

So it is entirely possible that I am simply not getting everything out of the brew that I could. However in all the times I have tried both, it has been pretty much the same, perhaps with different levels of the same. They are quite distinct from each other, and I feel that these notes reflect my overall experience with this tea. I did take care to brew them as much the same as possible, and also draw on past experience. I feel that any difference from outside factors is minimal here.

To conclude, I can really only say that I really like this tea a whole lot. It is one of the most interesting teas I have had, and is especially great when I have some time to sit down and just drink tea. I do very highly recommend this tea, but watch out for the fakes!

Two Rooster Roundup (Bai Ji Guan, Wuyi Wulong/Oolong)

Wuyi style wulongs are becoming one of my favorites. Since Bai Ji Guan is considered one of the best, I figured it would be a good place to start.

Bai Ji Guan means "White Cock Comb" or "White Rooster's Crest". Aside from the legends, it gets it's name from the buds used to make it. They are picked quite early, while still very pale in appearance. See Hou De's product page for this tea to see pictures of the buds just before they are picked (by hand) to make Bai Ji Guan.

Here is the legend, according to TeaSpring:

...the name of this marvellous tea was given by a monk in memorial of a courageous rooster that sacrificed his life while protecting his baby from an eagle. Touched by the display of courage and love, the monk buried the rooster and from that spot, the Bai Ji Guan tea bush grew.

TeaSpring's Bai Ji Guan (Spring 2007)
Product page

These look more yellow/orange/brown in person.
Click for hi-res

What strikes me the most about this tea is the leaves. This tea is a much lighter tea than any wuyi I have ever seen before. The dry leaves also have a wonderful sweet aroma of honeysuckle and... orchid?.. on a warm afternoon in late spring. (Unfortunately I don't know my flowers well.)

This one has a cleaner and sweeter taste than the other, with less emphasis on the roasted wuyi character that defines this type of wulong. The flavors all blend together into a round body with elusive spicy notes that are quite subdued. It definitely has a woody foundation, but it would be a lighter wood than most wuyi's. The taste is sweet, soft, like flower petals and lightly toasted honey. Unfortunately the floral characteristics are not very present in the aroma of the tea as it is in the dry leaves. The aroma does hint at it, but smells more like sugar and spring water. The aftertaste has a quick sweet bloom that fades quickly and leaves a slight astringency and a lasting sweetness. The complexity of this one is present but fleeting, and can be hard to miss at times. It re-emerges in the aftertaste in the very back of my tongue, but is even more elusive than before. It is a quite interesting tea, although the complexity is rather hard to pin down long enough to define. Despite how it may sound, this is not a tea that strikes you as complex, although it does become more noticeable the more you drink it. This is a good one to sit down with on a quiet evening with some calm music.

Hou De's Bai Ji Guan (Spring 2005)
Product page

Click for hi-res

Tastes much more like a wuyi. Nice, medium heavy roasted taste with undercurrent of fruit and honey and a mild fleeting bitter-sweetness that dissipates quickly but returns for just a moment as the aftertaste starts to emerge. Aroma is toasty and mildly floral, with the floral notes primarily detectable with the tip of the tongue. Bigger sips reveal different flavors and textures. Finish is bitter sweet that quickly settles as a floral sweetness, particularly at the front of the tongue. A toasted honey character with a touch of fruit defines this one from aroma to finish. Like many good wuyi's, this one gives a nice texture of woodgrain on the tongue from a slight acidity, but this one seems to be a bit more ethereal, round, sitting more above the tongue, and gives a nice fuzzy feeling that does a little dancing before settling if you pay close attention. There is slight astringency that is much more subdued than many wuyi's. As I swish the tea around, it almost seems to leave traces as it melts into your tongue very quickly. The aftertaste is lasting, and settles mostly on the rear-most edges of my tongue, radiating a soft sweetness, defying my 2nd grade teacher's insistence that I was not, in fact, tasting sweetness anywhere but the tip of my tongue. Although, to her credit, there is a certain bitter quality brought about by the roasted undercurrent, which is quite pleasant.

The sensation of this tea, especially in the aftertaste, is almost that of muscatel, but with slightly different dimensions. This comes out more as the tea cools, leaving behind some of the typical wuyi characteristics and giving way to a more smooth sweetness. Nevertheless, a lover of both wulongs and Darjeelings would probably like this tea. I was surprised, however, to find that this one is not quite as smooth as the newer one from TeaSpring.

Overall this is a very good tea. It's a very good representation of a wuyi wulong, with a soft sweetness that should accommodate most palates. It reminds me of a moderate rain on a warm sunny day, with large drops leaving thick trails that quickly consolidate to chase the drop before evaporating.

Overall this is a great tea, regardless of which you pick. The first is a little sweeter, and has more interesting characteristics, but the second will better suit the wuyi lover expecting that characteristic roasted flavor. I would be hard pressed to declare one as clearly superior, as they each have unique characteristics that make each special. The complexities are more apparent in Hou De's, but the first almost has more interesting and elusive complexities. They also each have things in common that make them obviously of the same type. Hou De's is a bit aged, and I expect both to become even better with further aging, which should bring the flavors together and mellow them down.

As nice as this tea is, however, there is something lacking that keeps it just slightly back from being satisfying to me. Many of the wuyi teas are satisfying, despite my eclectic tastes, but there is something about this that just isn't quite there. Perhaps it's just me, or perhaps it will come with aging.

Tea Commercial & Book

First, this was just too cute not to share:



Second, Project Gutenberg has a book on tea that you might find worthwhile. It gives some background on the Asian (or at least Japanese) tea culture. It's not a long book, but it is an interesting read, and you can't beat free!

The Book of Tea, by Okakura Kakuzo (or Kakuzo Okakura, depending on where you look)

Available as:

Plain text

PDF (at AOL)
(Requires a PDF reader. If you don't have one, try Foxit Reader. I find it much better than Adobe's.)

HTML (at Kells Craft)